Well that was the intention!
First, having read the bachanalian posts from the north, I hope the airline you are all flying to Lyon with weighs the passengers as well as the luggage!
The Lonely Planet describes Batalha, Alcobaca and Tomar as one of the national treasures of the country ... so I thought I had better have a look.
Gloria was all fired up to take me off the beaten path, and she performed brilliantly. Once off the motorway we first came across a gypsy wagon complete with shaggy horse and about 8 people piled on the wagon. Next were large nests perched high in dead trees. I had seen some in power pylons the day before but couldn't stop on the motorway. We were driving through cork country and there were many trees that had had a recent sheer - they look a bit like poodles. There were lots of cattle with BIG horns - not like ours at all. I passed what I presume must have been charcoal ovens smoking away in the midst of scrubby country - reminded me of Paul Eek and his charcoal business and their sources in Botswana.
Then to the purpose of the day Alcobaca monastry. It is a trully magnificent structure, and to cap it there was a baptism about to start in the main nave. The monastry used to belong to the Cistercian clan, but apparently they got bit too bachanalian and were closed down - a lesson for some. It was quite ironic as they started out as ascetic types with few frills, but somewhere along the way they lost their way - and their monastry. Of course there were a few former kings of Portugal laid out - with their partners! The kitchen was amazing - the largest exhaust chimney you have ever seen - it even had the stream piped in so they could get fresh fish. A visitor in about the 18th century described fat monks waddling around, and if they couldn't fit some of the narrow doors they had to diet!
Next stop, about 20km away was another amazing monastry/abbey in Batalha - this one had more frills than the last! The roof has turrets and flying buttresses - you name it. It also has an unfinished section from a later period in a much more elaborate style - Manueline, imported from Spain with the architect. In this unroofed section are the sarcofagii of a king and queen - holding hands for eternity - noice! Some parts of the place were so high only prisoners on death row were allowed to work on it. As at Alcobaca the main naves are hugh - long and high! There is a section in the old chapter house that is a shrine for the unknown soldier. There are two graves, one from WW1 and the other from Mozambique. There is an eternal flame and is all guarded by 3 armed soldiers looking very spiffy
My overnight stop, in preparation for number 3 is Tomar, a lovely little town along a river. Towering above the town is the former headquarters of the knights templars. Apparently they were big in these parts from the 12th to 16th centuries and the castle is atop a very steep hill. The castle sure looks impressive and there is supposed be be a 16 sided church where the knights could ride in - see it wasn't invented in the USA. The woman on the hotel desk recommended a little restaurant off the main drag and I took her advice - fortunately! It was the best meal since the first night in Lisbon, and cost a whole 16 euros, with a complimentary port! Fish curry and it was delicious.
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