Thursday, 3 September 2015

Spiral staircases in Salamanca

I am sitting on a terrazzo (balcony) about 100 stairs up from the ground in the bell tower of the Cathedral of Salamanca.  We climbed through the old Cathedral (begun in 1120) and overlooked the interior of the new Cathedral (1513 to 1733 - late Gothic and baroque) as we climbed higher. 

Ewan is in his element and has headed off up some tiny stone spiral stairs to reach the bell tower.

I took one look at the stairs and the map and decided it wasn't for me!  Too tiny and steep!  So I am enjoying the view of the beautiful old town of Salamanca.  In many of the places we have been the old section of town has been relatively small: sometimes only a few streets have been remained.  Here the old town is most of the town and any new buildings have retained the style so it is very beautiful. 

Salamanca is a university town so this morning we wandered around the University buildings and grounds.  Ive taken endless photos because at every turn there is another huge ornate stone building or cobbled street with iron balconies and flower boxes.

Yesterday  when we arrived we had no idea where the hotel was. When we finally located it, we didn't know whether to be pleased or horrified, as it is literally next door to the Plaza Mayor: a huge square which is one of the main meeting places for locals and tourists. Our hotel room has two sets of glass doors to our tiny balcony to limit the noise,  and we look out over a lovely small square which is much more sedate.

Whilst we were trying to locate the hotel we parked the car nearby and when we went to take it to the carpark there was a very serious looking guy in a truck who was considering towing the car away.  He was all smiles when he realised we were tourists and we were very apologetic in our best Spanish! Phew!

Later.....
Ewan returned without having achieved the success he hoped for - the steps didn't go far and he was nowhere near the bell tower at the end. But there are lots of bell towers here so success may be in one of those!

We set off, map in hand,  to see the sights and:

- meditated in the beautiful cloisters of San Esteban (Saint Stephen)

- ate a horzanas for lunch ( a type of pie with dry bread surrounding a filling, ours was chorizo)

- tried to make sense of an exhibition of archival materials about the Spanish Civil War which included propaganda posters from both Republicans and Nationalists, and weirdly,  an exhibition about Freemasonry because they were oppressed by Franco. It included a replica of a meeting room complete with symbols and men with black KKK hats.

- enjoyed the many statues, paintings, vases, jewellery at the Museo of Art Nouveau called Casa Lis. The collection included Lalique, Limoges and a wide range of European art nouveau pieces.  I would gladly have taken home some of the beautiful graceful statues of dancers made from marble and bronze - just exquisite!  The replicas in the gift shop weren't quite the same so I came away empty handed.

- eventually climbed the Scala Coeli Torres de La Clericia, and much to Ewan's joy, after we had climbed 198 steps ( I counted them!) we were within touching distance of  three huge bells - however , being perfect tourists we didn't touch them,  as instructed.
The last few steps were up cylindrical wooden towers that were very steep.  To Ewan's delight there was a matching tower that reached another set of bells, or so he tells me, as I bailed out on that set!  He still didn't reach the very top but clearly that was an achievement for another day.

- rewarded ourselves with a G&T and a large beer respectively!

And then a very nice dinner after a very busy day,

Your overstimulated and weary correspondent

Dianne

PS In the last photo see if you can find a frog hidden in this intricate design.  If you can find it is supposed to bring you good luck. I spent ages trying to find it but no luck! !

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